Maintaining A Compost Heap

One of the most undervalued by product of many a keen gardener, is the large amount of organic waste produced, from old and dead plants, to grass cuttings, and pruned leaves. So undervalued is this output, that many people will go to great expense and effort to clear it up and get it transported to the local landfill. This though, is a waste of good material that could be better used in a compost for your garden.

Compost Heap Design

Good compost can be a better and more natural supplement for you yard than any chemical or fertilisers you can buy. Once decomposed, your organic garbage will be rich in organic nutrients for the rest of your garden. Turning it into heap, therefore spares you the expense of transporting it to a landfill site, and will save you money you would otherwise have had to spend on fertilisers. If your backyard is a vegetable garden your outputs taste will be improved by the use of this organic compost instead of chemical fertilisers.

Compost Heap Construction For Kids

The best location, is usually the far end of the yard, out of site. While it is true that a compost can sometimes produce offensive odours, these can be reduced, if not eliminated, in a well maintained heap. By following a few simple rules, you can create a compost heap that is not only inoffensive, but also produces high quality natural fertiliser for the rest of your garden.

Large Compost Heap Worms

Rather than digging deeper to create a large heap, you are better served by increasing the area taken by the heap. Piling on organic waste too deep starves the bottom layers of the air needed for quick clean decomposition, and will only result in slow rotting garbage. Indeed, some gardeners solve the space problem, by building their compost heaps on the flat roofs of sheds or tool shack, rather than at ground level. This allows you to use a large surface area, without taking up additional space in your garden.

Grass Cuttings Compost Heap

Keeping the compost moist is also very important. While there is no need to flood, the bacteria and insects that break down your organic waste into useful fertilizer do need water and air to thrive. A dry compost is a dead compost. If your heap has any sort of depth, it can be beneficial to start turning it with a garden fork once it starts, to ensure that all the material in it gets sufficient air and moisture to decompose. In addition to this, you can use your pitchfork to make aerating holes in the heap as you add additional layers, to ensure sufficient oxygen supplies.

Pretty much any organic garbage can be added, from leftover food to paper. While paper can compost, you should try and limit the amount in your heap to not more than 20% or a fifth of the volume, as it is harder to decompose, than the rest of the waste. As you add waste, add it in layers of about 2 inches each. Use normal soil from your backyard to cover each layer and separate it from the next one. You can also speed up or improve the rate of decomposition by shredding any waste you add to your heap.

Composting your organic waste makes sound financial and environmental sense. A well maintained compost will not stink, but smell like the decaying wood in a forest. Even if you think you do not have enough ground space in your yard, you should investigate alternative placements, and you might find one that suits you. The effort is well rewarded with an abundant supply of natural, organic fertiliser to rival any chemical products you might buy in the shops.